I would like to install a shower grab bar.

[Wilhemena]

Is it incredibly difficult to install a shower grab bar and how mechanically inclined does one need to be to accomplish such a feat? Safety has become an issue and I want it done right without worrying about my tight income being compromised so do I have a male relative attempt this or hire a man?

 

[Tigger]

I just did this for my mother and have done many due to the fact I do facilities maintenance. Anyone handy with power tools can do this with no problem.

 

[user1234]

Well... Im your brother in Christ, so I guess I'm your relative and I'm a guy and I'd be happy to install it for you, no charge just buy the parts. But I have no idea where you are.
It's not a too, too difficult a job, however, there's a few things to consider.
First, do you have ceramic tile walls? Is there a tub surround like fiberglass, etc.?

Usually shower walls are tile, you will need a drill and the proper bit to get through the tile without cracking it. The hardware store can direct you on the proper tools, and if the support bar doesnt come with anchors, they can show you what to purchase, depending on the substructure of the walls, but generally a lead or fiber anchor.
(This is if finding the wall studs for both ends can't be done or is impractical somehow.
Installing into the studs is the right way and code, but with the proper anchors, long enough bolts and good adhesive, one or both ends can be secured.)

And don't go cheap. Get a stainless steel bar, two is best if you want to spend the money, it's worth it. Stainless bar, stainless screws too.

I recommend against any knock-off that relies on adhesive alone (there are rip-offs out there), spend the money on a legitamate system and... Bolt that thing in tight!
I have them, and now that I do, I'd never want to be without them again.
Also, check youtube, there are alot of great ppl who post DIY videos for home repairs and improvements that can be a real blessing.
Hope it works out for you. If you get stuck, feel free to give me a call.

 

[popsthebuilder]

The issue is going to be if you have blocking and or studs(vertical wood members generally 16"apart)where the mounting holes are for the grab bars. If you are uncertain (as in your case) then you should plan to have to use anchors. If you have ceramic or porcelain tile walls then you will most likely need a small rotary hammer/ hammer drill to drill holes through the tile. They also make a wet tile drill bit that works relatively well for single use applications. Just remember to wet it periodically while in use. Another trick would be to place the bars so that the mounting bracket anchor holes line up with the grout lines. Two holes per side successfully mounted will suffice.



faith in selfless unity for good

 

[user1234]

Interesting , brother pops .. different strokes for different folks.
I've been recommended AGAINST a hammer drill, but just get the proper carbide tipped masonry bit and take your time. Use wide masking or painters tape on the tile, mark the spot, tap it with a punch LIGHTLY for a starter to prevent slippage, and drill slowly at first, increase speed and use medium pressure
Also, while drilling between tiles may be easier to get through, it risks chipping or cracking two tiles at once, ... Better to center all the holes on one tile.

Also, ceramic and porcelain generally require different bits because of the differing hardnesses.

If the bar is eighteen inches, it CAN be installedon an angle to be able to center on the sixteen inch stud separation, depending on the need of application. My shower has an eighteen inch bar, but vertically installed at the front outer section for a grip to get in and out, and an angled smaller bar on the inner wall above the soap holder. Pretty handy.
Anyway, God bless you, brother, ... Considering your named 'thebuilder' I'm sure Wilhemina can trust your advice too, and it's a blessing just to be able to share ideas with you here.

 

[tango]

Is it incredibly difficult to install a shower grab bar and how mechanically inclined does one need to be to accomplish such a feat? Safety has become an issue and I want it done right without worrying about my tight income being compromised so do I have a male relative attempt this or hire a man?

You may be able to install one with no tools at all.

Many years ago my wife's aunt had a grab bar that used suction pads. When I saw how it worked my first thought was that she was putting her trust into something that would probably let her down when she needed it, but that thing was solid. It had a couple of simple switches so you could release the suction (if you wanted to remove or reposition it), and then crank up the suction once you had it where you wanted it.

 

[popsthebuilder]

Interesting , brother pops .. different strokes for different folks.
I've been recommended AGAINST a hammer drill, but just get the proper carbide tipped masonry bit and take your time. Use wide masking or painters tape on the tile, mark the spot, tap it with a punch LIGHTLY for a starter to prevent slippage, and drill slowly at first, increase speed and use medium pressure
Also, while drilling between tiles may be easier to get through, it risks chipping or cracking two tiles at once, ... Better to center all the holes on one tile.

Also, ceramic and porcelain generally require different bits because of the differing hardnesses.

If the bar is eighteen inches, it CAN be installedon an angle to be able to center on the sixteen inch stud separation, depending on the need of application. My shower has an eighteen inch bar, but vertically installed at the front outer section for a grip to get in and out, and an angled smaller bar on the inner wall above the soap holder. Pretty handy.
Anyway, God bless you, brother, ... Considering your named 'thebuilder' I'm sure Wilhemina can trust your advice too, and it's a blessing just to be able to share ideas with you here.

A light duty rotoryhammer with a fair bit works, as does a throwaway tile cutting bit. The hardness isnt too important as long as steady moderate pressure is used along with periodic cooling of the bit with water. None of that is needed with a rotoryhammer. Generally a grout line is about a quarter inch. You will get nominal chipping regardless of where you hit the tile, but I would agree that attempting to drill near an edge of the tile could prove problematic due to actual breakage of the tile. This doesn't happen when drilling grout and any chipping at the perimeter of the drilled hole would surely be covered by the mounting bracket cover or flange cover.

Using anchors on one end and a stud on the other for mounting points is easiest. Keeping the bar mounting holes lined up with the grout line does work. Drilling into the edge or corner of a tile does not.

I wasn't recommended anything. I'm going off of actual repeated experience from when I converted old tubs into custom walk/ roll in showers for the disabled. Attempting to use even a brand new masonry bit in a standard drill will prove nearly fruitless except for in the softest of natural stone. That's why I keep recommending getting a specific drill bit made for tile that can be found in the tile department of a hardware store; most people have at least a standard battery powered drill.

Drilling through the grout with a standard drill bit slightly smaller than the grout line and screw to be used to secure the bar hitting a stud is best. But the chances of locating and hitting two studs is slim.

I find that everyone has their own ways of doing things; little variations in method or order or process. So the key is to find what is most efficient. And a method you may be more inclined to use would to be one you are more proficient with and as such; more efficient over all, and the same could be said for me and my methods. I'll leave it at that. It is always good to hear of alternate methods to accomplish goals. You never know when that method may be the only one that works in any given scenario.

You may have trouble using a stud finder to locate backing to secure your bar to due to the tile. If the tile doesn't go all the way to the ceiling then you can attempt to use the stud finder above the tile; marking the studs there and transferring the mark to the desired height using a level. If the stud finder doesn't work on the sheetrock above the tile then you can lightly tap the sheetrock with a smooth faced hammer sweeping to left or right slowly. It will make a hollow sound but when you get near and over a stud the pitch of the sound will change and sound lower also feeling more solid. When you notice the pitch difference, continue the same way until it changes back hollow sounding. Go over it again to pinpoint center of stud. Using a wood screw; drill into sheetrock at suspected position of stud. If screw gains significant resistance to turning after about an inch of penetration then you've located a stud. From that point measure out 16 inch increments and make small references on sheetrock above tile.*(CAUTION: DO NOT ATTEMPT TO SCREW OR ANCHOR ANYTHING EVEN NEARLY VERTICALLY ALIGNED WITH SHOWER HEAD OR VALVE)*

Repairing a small hole in sheetrock is better than having to replace a tile.

It is a blessing to be able to share things that one knows with others.

What they do with said information is up to them.

peace friends

faith in selfless unity for good

 

[user1234]

You may be able to install one with no tools at all.

Many years ago my wife's aunt had a grab bar that used suction pads. When I saw how it worked my first thought was that she was putting her trust into something that would probably let her down when she needed it, but that thing was solid. It had a couple of simple switches so you could release the suction (if you wanted to remove or reposition it), and then crank up the suction once you had it where you wanted it.

Please please be very careful. They have been known to fail, and usually they are sold as being not for weight, but only as a something to use for balance when unsteady.

And if that's all they're used for, they might be fine, but often ppl forget, and someone may use them to pull themself up, or to grab if they're falling, and they could break loose and cause even worse harm to the person relying on them.

I wont tell anyone what to do or not, but please be careful with the suction bars.
There's a relatively newer product that eliminates drilling too, it is an epoxy system that is supposed to be pretty good, but again, would I want a heavier person, or someone falling, relying on it?
Give me the ones bolted right in. Theyre not too difficult to install, and give the peace of mind that it's nearly impossible for them to come off the wall. imo.

 

[user1234]

A light duty rotoryhammer with a fair bit works, as does a throwaway tile cutting bit. The hardness isnt too important as long as steady moderate pressure is used along with periodic cooling of the bit with water. None of that is needed with a rotoryhammer. Generally a grout line is about a quarter inch. You will get nominal chipping regardless of where you hit the tile, but I would agree that attempting to drill near an edge of the tile could prove problematic due to actual breakage of the tile. This doesn't happen when drilling grout and any chipping at the perimeter of the drilled hole would surely be covered by the mounting bracket cover or flange cover.

Using anchors on one end and a stud on the other for mounting points is easiest. Keeping the bar mounting holes lined up with the grout line does work. Drilling into the edge or corner of a tile does not.

I wasn't recommended anything. I'm going off of actual repeated experience from when I converted old tubs into custom walk/ roll in showers for the disabled. Attempting to use even a brand new masonry bit in a standard drill will prove nearly fruitless except for in the softest of natural stone. That's why I keep recommending getting a specific drill bit made for tile that can be found in the tile department of a hardware store; most people have at least a standard battery powered drill.

Drilling through the grout with a standard drill bit slightly smaller than the grout line and screw to be used to secure the bar hitting a stud is best. But the chances of locating and hitting two studs is slim.

I find that everyone has their own ways of doing things; little variations in method or order or process. So the key is to find what is most efficient. And a method you may be more inclined to use would to be one you are more proficient with and as such; more efficient over all, and the same could be said for me and my methods. I'll leave it at that. It is always good to hear of alternate methods to accomplish goals. You never know when that method may be the only one that works in any given scenario.

You may have trouble using a stud finder to locate backing to secure your bar to due to the tile. If the tile doesn't go all the way to the ceiling then you can attempt to use the stud finder above the tile; marking the studs there and transferring the mark to the desired height using a level. If the stud finder doesn't work on the sheetrock above the tile then you can lightly tap the sheetrock with a smooth faced hammer sweeping to left or right slowly. It will make a hollow sound but when you get near and over a stud the pitch of the sound will change and sound lower also feeling more solid. When you notice the pitch difference, continue the same way until it changes back hollow sounding. Go over it again to pinpoint center of stud. Using a wood screw; drill into sheetrock at suspected position of stud. If screw gains significant resistance to turning after about an inch of penetration then you've located a stud. From that point measure out 16 inch increments and make small references on sheetrock above tile.*(CAUTION: DO NOT ATTEMPT TO SCREW OR ANCHOR ANYTHING EVEN NEARLY VERTICALLY ALIGNED WITH SHOWER HEAD OR VALVE)*

Repairing a small hole in sheetrock is better than having to replace a tile.

It is a blessing to be able to share things that one knows with others.

What they do with said information is up to them.

peace friends

faith in selfless unity for good

Some excellent pointers in here pops, thank you.
Yes, definitely stay away from the corners if possible, and the stud for one end, anchor if needed at the other is just fine.
These old brick rowhomes here have no sheetrock in them, lol, except if added later, doing repairs or additions.
Nope, it's pretty much plaster throughout. My bathroom has plaster above the tile, from about 5 1/2 feet up to the 8ft ceiling. Basements are either stone and mud, or in my case, reinforced concrete.

And yes, stay away from those hidden water pipes and valves!! :=D:
God bless you, pops!

 

[user1234]

A light duty rotoryhammer with a fair bit works, as does a throwaway tile cutting bit. The hardness isnt too important as long as steady moderate pressure is used along with periodic cooling of the bit with water. None of that is needed with a rotoryhammer. Generally a grout line is about a quarter inch. You will get nominal chipping regardless of where you hit the tile, but I would agree that attempting to drill near an edge of the tile could prove problematic due to actual breakage of the tile. This doesn't happen when drilling grout and any chipping at the perimeter of the drilled hole would surely be covered by the mounting bracket cover or flange cover.

Using anchors on one end and a stud on the other for mounting points is easiest. Keeping the bar mounting holes lined up with the grout line does work. Drilling into the edge or corner of a tile does not.

I wasn't recommended anything. I'm going off of actual repeated experience from when I converted old tubs into custom walk/ roll in showers for the disabled. Attempting to use even a brand new masonry bit in a standard drill will prove nearly fruitless except for in the softest of natural stone. That's why I keep recommending getting a specific drill bit made for tile that can be found in the tile department of a hardware store; most people have at least a standard battery powered drill.

Drilling through the grout with a standard drill bit slightly smaller than the grout line and screw to be used to secure the bar hitting a stud is best. But the chances of locating and hitting two studs is slim.

I find that everyone has their own ways of doing things; little variations in method or order or process. So the key is to find what is most efficient. And a method you may be more inclined to use would to be one you are more proficient with and as such; more efficient over all, and the same could be said for me and my methods. I'll leave it at that. It is always good to hear of alternate methods to accomplish goals. You never know when that method may be the only one that works in any given scenario.

You may have trouble using a stud finder to locate backing to secure your bar to due to the tile. If the tile doesn't go all the way to the ceiling then you can attempt to use the stud finder above the tile; marking the studs there and transferring the mark to the desired height using a level. If the stud finder doesn't work on the sheetrock above the tile then you can lightly tap the sheetrock with a smooth faced hammer sweeping to left or right slowly. It will make a hollow sound but when you get near and over a stud the pitch of the sound will change and sound lower also feeling more solid. When you notice the pitch difference, continue the same way until it changes back hollow sounding. Go over it again to pinpoint center of stud. Using a wood screw; drill into sheetrock at suspected position of stud. If screw gains significant resistance to turning after about an inch of penetration then you've located a stud. From that point measure out 16 inch increments and make small references on sheetrock above tile.*(CAUTION: DO NOT ATTEMPT TO SCREW OR ANCHOR ANYTHING EVEN NEARLY VERTICALLY ALIGNED WITH SHOWER HEAD OR VALVE)*

Repairing a small hole in sheetrock is better than having to replace a tile.

It is a blessing to be able to share things that one knows with others.

What they do with said information is up to them.

peace friends

faith in selfless unity for good

Tried to give you a thumbs up and a thanks on this post, but it disappeared, I have no idea why or where it went. :dunno:

 

[user1234]

Okay, now my last two posts re-appeared ... I have no idea why or what happened. Unless home repair is out of bounds, lol, but that can't be. Jesus was a carpenter, wasn't He.

 

[Lamb]

Ooh good thread! My dad should be visiting this year and I was thinking that maybe I should install something for him when he showers. Most of our guests just use the towel bar and then it gets loosened and I get upset that I have to fix it. I had considered the suction cup one since it would only be for balance to step out of the shower.

 

[popsthebuilder]

Ooh good thread! My dad should be visiting this year and I was thinking that maybe I should install something for him when he showers. Most of our guests just use the towel bar and then it gets loosened and I get upset that I have to fix it. I had considered the suction cup one since it would only be for balance to step out of the shower.

The suction cup ones are dangerous. Depending on the type of tile, it can loosen over time. Much tile is porous and eventually air will pull through the tile or from around the texture of the tile causing it to fail. No one uses them for balance alone. Even if they did; when you loose your balance you redistribute your wait to whatever is available.

Do yourself and your father(?) a favor and have real ones professionally installed for peace of mind.

peace

faith in selfless unity for good

 

[tango]

Please please be very careful. They have been known to fail, and usually they are sold as being not for weight, but only as a something to use for balance when unsteady.

And if that's all they're used for, they might be fine, but often ppl forget, and someone may use them to pull themself up, or to grab if they're falling, and they could break loose and cause even worse harm to the person relying on them.

I wont tell anyone what to do or not, but please be careful with the suction bars.
There's a relatively newer product that eliminates drilling too, it is an epoxy system that is supposed to be pretty good, but again, would I want a heavier person, or someone falling, relying on it?
Give me the ones bolted right in. Theyre not too difficult to install, and give the peace of mind that it's nearly impossible for them to come off the wall. imo.

I'd have said the same thing until I tried to pull this thing off the wall and couldn't. At that point I felt very confident it wouldn't let my wife's aunt down.

 

[user1234]

I'd have said the same thing until I tried to pull this thing off the wall and couldn't. At that point I felt very confident it wouldn't let my wife's aunt down.

Ok brother, but Im with pops on this one. The thing with suction ones, is you never know if theyre losing grip strength but are still attached, ... Until you go to rely on them in an emergency or a dizzy spell, etc.
Much safer to have stainless steel ones bolted on. They're not going anywhere.
A fall in the bathroom can be extremely dangerous for the elderly, or anyone, really, even deadly.
Water, soap, slick surfaces, if ppl take their glasses off, poor vision, general off-balance tendencies, etc., too many factors for a tragedy. Why risk it?
Bolting them in is not a big deal and you are done and have safety and peace of mind.
But to each his own, just trying to help.

 

[user1234]

Ooh good thread! My dad should be visiting this year and I was thinking that maybe I should install something for him when he showers. Most of our guests just use the towel bar and then it gets loosened and I get upset that I have to fix it. I had considered the suction cup one since it would only be for balance to step out of the shower.

Guests! Phooey!!
See? This is why we can't have nice things!


Just kiddin, Lämm ..... Yes, get the peace of mind, get the bolt-on kind. It's worth it.

(Hey ... An Ad jingle!!!
"Get some peace of mind with the bolt-on kind!" )
Bah-dum, psshh! :drum:

 

[Lamb]

Guests! Phooey!!
See? This is why we can't have nice things!


Just kiddin, Lämm ..... Yes, get the peace of mind, get the bolt-on kind. It's worth it.

(Hey ... An Ad jingle!!!
"Get some peace of mind with the bolt-on kind!" )
Bah-dum, psshh! :drum:

Yeah, my guests aren't always considerate. My husband's friend isn't careful and one time he walked in my house with dirty shoes after I mopped. He told me I could just clean the floors again. I told him that's why he's not married.

 

[user1234]

Yeah, my guests aren't always considerate. My husband's friend isn't careful and one time he walked in my house with dirty shoes after I mopped. He told me I could just clean the floors again. I told him that's why he's not married.

Yeah, heh heh ... HEY!!! WAIT a minute!!!

 

[Wilhemena]

Oh my goodness what lovely responses with expert guidance that I did not anticipate and I do wish to have this job done in the immediate future. The adhesive is too risky for my aging body and I will have the anchor method done instead.